The weather is cooler and cloudy but it still feels wonderful to laze on the sand and swim in the sea. The waves pull in and out making that restorative lapping noise and a few people bob on the gentle waves. A young boy paddles in the shallows with his snorkel, in a world of his creating, making noises like a car or a jet ski, or some kind of underwater fantasy machine, "Brrr-rrr-rrr-hmmmmmm-broommmm." Boys and their machines, men and their cars, plus ca change! Further out are the shrubby islands and further still, mountains. It's a nice island with some wonderfully friendly people but I wouldn't say it was the most beautiful Greek island I've ever visited. The 'Captain's Correlli's Mandolin' (film) machine sold this place as a paradise but it seems quite scrubby with lots of half-built buildings. I suppose I shouldn't hold this against them, their history has been severe and the earthquake destroyed most architecture but it doesn't strike me as the prettiest habitat with the endless roads and dry grasses. The other unattractive thing is the airport and the constant aeroplanes which fly over, breaking my peace. It reminds me of Battersea in the summer when the planes would constantly wake me or crash into my solitude. There is something so intrusive about plane noise, unlike vehicle traffic which I can seem to get used to. However the money and tourism these planes must bring to the island must make up somehow for the destruction it inevitably brings. Yet the island has some spectacular views, out to sea and out to the mountains and has some pretty harbours such as Argostoli (where I bought some amazing pashminas) and Evfimia.
A man sits very close to me and does the usual thing of staring unashamedly at my body. I hate the way I feel uncomfortable and self-conscious in a bikini even with shorts and am torn between pulling my long sleeve top back on and not wanting to have my actions dictated by unwanted attention. Do most women enjoy this? A frankly unattractive man staring at them as if his right to do so? Would I mind if he were attractive? I think I'd still feel affronted.
I felt a sadness on the beach, my days of relaxation on this lovely island are almost over and I want more days, I am greedy for them! I don't want to leave my perfect apartment, my balcony, I want to stay and pass the time of day with Stephanos and George, I want to learn Greek and I want to write all day... I want, I want. Currently this seems to have so much more value than the hamster wheel at home. And what do we do it for? Caught up in our trap of mortgage repayments, rent, bills... and for what, to then be made redundant, dismissed like you are nothing. I should be grateful I have a job to go back to in this current climate, but actually I wish I didn't, I wish I could find some menial job here in the sun...
Later, as I am prepare to go down to eat and drink goodbye with everyone at the apartments, the most terrific thunderstorm starts. It reminds me of Eng Lit and 'pathetic fallacy'. Had the most wonderful evening with everyone, drinking and eating and chatted to some new guests who had arrived that day. First off a couple in their 70s or thereabouts (it seems I am revising my ideas about age on this trip as this is the second time I have met someone - or sometwo - in their 70s and been astounded at how fit and young they seem) who are from the UK. The man looked like a younger version of my grandad, the exact same colouring, and it turns out he is from South London too (Bermondsey). He mentioned his travels in the Air Service and also as a Xerox employee which included postings to Russia, Yugoslavia, Poland, Romania, Hungary and Bulgaria. He was really interested to hear I was visiting the latter 3 and told me I would love Budapest confirming my expectations of the beautiful architecture and uniqueness of the city. He also spoke highly of Poland ("the people are very kind") and said Romania and Russia had both fascinated him. He seemed so vibrant and open-minded, considering things carefully before offering opinions. At this point his wife joined in the conversation and we started talking about Silchester, in Berkshire (UK) which is where they live. We got to talking about this in great enthusiasm because I spent 6 years living and studying in Reading, and I remembered Silchester as the site of an archaeological dig where a lot of Roman remains had been found. Another couple, Dave and Becky, were fascinating and in particular I spoke to Becky for a long time, actually quite sad I won't get to know her better. She was very intelligent, yet incredibly not only did she have cerebral palsy she also had a "minor" brain tumour for which she was being treated by medication. She was so determined, so quick of mind and yet she mentioned more than once of how the tumour had wrecked her memory and speed of mind, which made me marvel at how she was prior to the supposed deterioration she described. I feel loathe to describe these conditions because it was her force of character that defined her, rather than any disability, but she was so inspirational, so vibrant and alive, that I was awed by her spirit. She told me about her degree and her MA (we were both history students, as was her partner, so we got quite involved in that for a time) and also her writing (again something we had in common). I felt like there was some kind of understanding between us and I felt myself wanting to confide in her and ask her opinion on certain things, yet I only spoke with her for such a limited time, before her tiredness got the better of her. She said she had never not known pain, which I thought was incredible.
Leave-taking was hard. Sheila and Wayne gave me about 20 hugs between them, and I had heard them saying to the other guests how brave I was for travelling on my own and other such things, almost like proud parents. It was really touching, given how brusque they can be, it was amazing to have inspired such kindness. Saying adio to Stephanos was horrible, he has such a mixture of sweetness and gentleness, so strange how you meet people for such a short time period yet feel like you have know them a lifetime. It's so bizarre how lives touch together and then break away, we none of us may ever see each other again and yet we shared this intimacy for a short space of time. I wonder what they will all gain from Kefalonia?
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